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| Endive Alla Pastria Photo Credit: Tom McGovern |
It's not often that I return to a restaurant that I formerly deemed not the greatest from a culinary point of view. Usually I write it off as a bad experience and I'm hard pressed to return to the scene of the crime twice. However, I had the opportunity to revisit a restaurant that I first encountered almost two years ago. My experience there was not a stellar one and my impressions reflected as much in my write-up.
What a difference a day (or, as in this case, many days) makes. Madonia Restaurant & Bar in Stamford has hit a high note and because of this I am reprinting an article entitled "Success the Second Time Around at Madonia Restaurant" that was recently published on Examiner.com.
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In January 2010, I made my first visit to Madonia Restaurant & Bar in Stamford. Despite the delightful ambience and wonderful aromas floating about, the cuisine proved to be a disappointment and in my mind Madonia was stricken from my dining repertoire. That was, however, until this past week when I had the opportunity to once again sample the modern Mediterranean fare.
It was obvious changes were afoot. A transformation had taken place at Madonia and was clear that it had so much more to do with than mere superficial aesthetics. Chef and owner Enzo Bruno made some much needed changes in the kitchen and the cuisine is all the better for it.
The new fall dinner menu is teeming with delights from land and sea. Primi dishes include Grilled Flatbread with forest mushrooms, fresh mozzarella, arugula and black truffle oil, an Antipasto plate with Prosciutto di Parma, Sopressata Piccante, house marinated fall vegetables and imported cheese and Endive Alla Piastra complete with Belgium endive, Prosciutto di Parma, figs, roasted pears and Argentinian Parmigiano.
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| Crab Cake |
One surprisingly delicious dish was the Crab Cakes, prepared golden brown with a dollop of roasted red pepper remoulade. The flavor was intense without being fishy and the cake didn’t suffer from breading overkill. Equally appetizing was the Homemade Gnocchi. It’s not difficult to imagine the recipe for these wondrous tiny potato bundles being passed down from generation to generation. The balanced marinara and shaved parmigiano added the perfect complement.
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| Maine Lobster Paella Photo Credit: Tom McGovern |
The Secondi dishes offered taste sensations that rivaled those of the Primi and did an outstanding job of holding their own. Madonia’s menu boasts Maine Lobster Paella for two, but this dish could clearly feed three or four comfortably. The blessedly beautiful aroma of the paella hit my nostrils before the nearly overflowing pan came into view. The amount of food is almost ridiculous and weighted down—in a very good way—with Maine lobster, cockle clams, mussels, shrimp, chorizo, bell peppers, peas and saffron essence. The secret of this dish, I believe, centered on the freshness of the ingredients. Each component brought its own sense of style to the party and, together, this comingling of flavors and textures was outstanding.
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| 5 Hour Short Ribs |
I made the mistake of thinking the paella was the huge hit of the evening. That was until I first caught a whiff of and then a taste of the 5 Hour Short Ribs. I tip my hat to Chef Enzo. The velvety sweetness of the Chianti glaze coupled with the insane tenderness of the short ribs created a dish that I wouldn’t think twice about attempting to replicate in my own kitchen. It was by far the best short rib I have ever tasted.
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| Chef and Owner Enzo Bruno Photo Credit: Tom McGovern |
I for one am truly grateful for the transformation of Madonia. Along with their wonderful fall menu, there’s also a special tasting menu and brunch menu. For those who find themselves without plans this Thanksgiving, why not indulge in the wonderful flavors of the Mediterranean? On the menu will be roasted turkey, roasted ham and, most notably, that wonderfully mouth watering 5 Hour Short Rib, among other dishes.
Madonia Restaurant & Bar
1297 Long Ridge Road
Stamford, CT
203-322-8870
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